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Dining Out: Canyon Rim's saucy Citris Grill is the main squeeze in freshness
It's always sad to see a good restaurant fold, but when an even better one takes its place, it's hard to keep mourning. Such is the case with Citris Grill, which moved into the Canyon Rim shopping strip three months ago, in the spot formerly occupied by Portofino. A quartet of owners, including Michael Crosland, chef at the excellent Boulevard restaurant in Holladay, opened the restaurant with an extensive menu highlighting "fresh" in everything and cleverly advertising itself as the new "neighborhood squeeze." Crosland is largely responsible for the menu, explained co-owner Amanda Blank; she and the other owners manage and oversee most of the day-to-day details while Crosland keeps up his work at Boulevard. Daryl Gerber, who worked with Crosland there, as well as at Rivers before that, is the Citris Grill chef. Citris Grill only accepts reservations for parties of eight or more, so when we showed up on a busy weekend night with fewer in our party, it was a short wait to be seated. Once at our table, we were promptly greeted by our server, who led us through the rest of an enjoyable evening, starting with several appetizers and the option of homemade sangria, a choice of several concoctions from the "martini" menu, wine by the 5-ounce glass or 2-ounce "taste," or bottomless soda drinks. Hot wings with mango hot sauce weren't too "hot," but definitely had a lip-warming zing, and the crab wontons were especially good dipped in a tangy orange-tinged hot sauce. Best of all, however, was the creamy spinach and artichoke dip with hot, fresh homemade flour tortilla chips. Like almost everything except sandwiches on the lunch/dinner menu, the appetizers are offered in a "hearty" portion or a half-size/half-price "petite" portion -- a welcome option for those of us who want to sample many dishes, or who simply have smaller appetites. By choosing the smaller portions, priced between $3.50 and $5, our foursome was able to sample several appetizers without breaking the bank. There are several I still want to try, including the cornmeal-roasted chili-crusted calamari, or risotto cakes with goat cheese and a tomato fondue. Slow-roasted baby back ribs on the entree list sounded irresistible, and stood up well to that description. The petite portion, for $9, was a slab of at least a half dozen tender ribs, coated with a piquant, smoky chipotle sauce. They were topped with thin, crispy curls of yam that had been julienned and fried for a different and delicious preparation. Even the side of coleslaw was worthy of mention, embellished with capers and a tangy, slightly sweet dressing. The sauces and dressings can't be taken for granted here; they go a long way in complementing and enhancing each meal's flavors. For those who order the grilled rib-eye steak (one size only, priced at $19), there is a palette of three dipping sauces to work with: a mustard and herb aioli; a semi-sweet vinaigrette; and the same spicy chipotle barbecue sauce that finished the ribs. Roasted potatoes and summer squash were a nice, simple accompaniment. Breakfast dishes likewise benefit from the addition of flavorful sauces. Of course, classic eggs Benedict wouldn't happen without hollandaise, and Citris Grill's is smooth, lemony and rich. The indulgent bananas Foster french toast is luscious with its buttery, brown sugar sauce. The crunchy almond french toast with strawberries also was a big hit at our table, though the thinly sliced berries were sparse, especially considering their abundance at market this time of year. Huevos rancheros are a personal weakness, and Citris Grill serves them up in classic style, with layers of tortilla, beans, cheese, eggs, salsa and guacamole. A list of "scrambles," three eggs with a variety of additions and a side of delicious hash browns, is the breakfast menu's pillar. Citris Grill advertises its "Sangria Sundays" as starting early, with an 8 a.m. opening. But for anyone unfamiliar with Utah liquor laws, that might be a little misleading. The fruity sangrias and bubbly mimosas are a lovely addition to Sunday brunch -- if you dine at noon or later; earlier than that and you are out of luck, legally speaking. (Private clubs can start liquor service at 10 a.m.) Whether dining at Citris Grill for breakfast, lunch or dinner, the biggest dilemma you face may be choosing just one item from the all-star lineup. With the option of half-size portions -- and prices -- maybe you don't have to. Instead, try a smaller salad and petite pizza or ribs -- it's your choice. Citris Grill Where: 2991 E. 3300 South; 801-466-1202
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